SWAN Technology: general issues WAVEWATCH-III typhoon wave Corsica ERA5 FVCOM Gaussian spectrum History of engineering & technology Lanyang River estuary SCHISM-WWM-III SWASH-2DH V-shaped undulating bottom aeolian processes artificial intelligence techniques artificial neural network coastal freak wave coastal hazard coastal modeling coastal morphology cross-shore profile evolution current depth-induced wave breaking direct modification method empirical orthogonal function erosion and accretion fetch high-order spectral (HOS) method hybrid winds landscape